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1. Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Parts
2. Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Briggs And Stratton
3. Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Fuel Pump
4. Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Diagram

REDLINE Kits: Toyota « Back Switch to a different make: - Choose one - Acura Alfa-Romeo AMC Audi Austin Healey/Austin BMW Chevrolet Chrysler/Dodge Fiat Ford GM Honda Hyundai Isuzu Jaguar Jeep Mazda Mercedes Benz MG Mitsubishi Nissan Nissan Truck & SUV Oldsmobile Opel Porsche Renault Saab Subaru Suzuki Toyota Toyota Truck/SUV Triumph Volvo VW. Access Free Toyota 3f Engine Manual Toyota 3f Engine Manual This is the genuine Toyota factory engine manual. 3F and the 3FE supplement Introduction, Engine mechanical, Fuel system, Cooling, Lubrication, starting, charging Searchable PDF files Bookmarked Chapters This manual and images can be viewed on the screen or pages printed for.

This repair manual has been prepared to provide information covering general service repair for the 2K, 3K-C, 3K-H, 4K & 4K-C engine equipped on the TOYOTA 1000, STARLET, COROLLA, LITEACE and BUV.

Applicable models:

• KP36, 60, 61, 62 series
• КE 70 series
• KM20 series
• КF20 series

For instructions on how to use this manual, please refer to page 1—4. Specifications contained herein are based on the January, 1981 production models. For specifications on other models, please refer to the respective Service Specification Manual.

The Toyota K series was a straight-4 engine produced from 1966 through 1988. It was a 2-valve pushrod engine design, a rarity for the company.

All K series are non-crossflow engines — the inlet and exhaust manifolds are on the same side. They have cast iron blocks and aluminium alloy heads, with a crankshaft supported by 5 main bearings. With the exception of the 5K, all K engines have solid lifters and 1.5 ratio rockers with an adjustment thread for tappet clearance.

2K

The 8-valve OHV 1.0 L (993 cc) 2K was produced from 1969 through 1988. Output in 1984 was 76 hp (34 kW) at 5600 RPM and 49 ft·lbf (66 N·m) at 4000 RPM.

Applications:

• Toyota Publica
• Toyota Starlet
• Toyota 1000

3K

The 8-valve OHV 1.2 L (1166 cc) 3K was produced from 1969 through 1977. Cylinder bore was 75 mm (2.95 in) and stroke was 66 mm (2.6 in). 3K 60hp at 6000rpm. 3K-BR 84hp at 6600rpm. 3K-B 97hp at 6600rpm (compression ratio of 10 and 9).

Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Parts

The 1969 through 1975 3K-B was a twin-carb version. The California-spec 3K-C (1977-1979) and 3K-H were other available versions.

Applications:

• Toyota Corolla
• Toyota Starlet
• Daihatsu Charmant
• Toyota Kijang/First Generation Toyota Tamaraw

4K

The 1.3 L (1290 cc) 4K was produced from 1978 through 1989. Cylinder bore was 75 mm (2.95 in) and stroke was 73 mm (2.87 in). It was a 8-valve OHV engine.

In 1980, the 4K produced 60 hp (45 kW) at 5250 RPM. From 1982 through 1984, output was 65 hp (48 kW) at 5600 RPM and 72 ft·lbf (97 N·m) at 3600 RPM.

The 1981 and 1982 California-spec 4K-C produced 58 hp (43 kW) at 5200 RPM and 67 ft.lbf (90 Nm) at 3600 RPM. Torque was up to 74 ft·lbf (100 N·m) at 3400 RPM for the fuel injected 1982 through 1984 4K-E. The Japan-spec 4K-U produced 74 hp (55 kW) at 5600 RPM and 78 ft·lbf (105 N·m) at 3600 RPM in 1982.

Applications:

• Toyota Corolla
• Toyota Starlet
• Toyota Liteace
• Daihatsu Charmant
• Toyota Kijang/Second Generation Toyota Tamaraw

CONTENTS

• INTRODUCTION
• ENGINE TUNE-UP
• ENGINE SERVICE
• LUBRICATION SYSTEM
• COOLING SYSTEM
• FUEL SYSTEM
• STARTING SYSTEM
• IGNITION SYSTEM
• CHARGING SYSTEM
• SST & SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS

Language: English
Format: PDF
Pages: 259

Samurai Toyota Carburetor Conversion

(the following is a reconstruction of the original 'Toy Carb' web page found at Northcoast Offroad. I have tried several times since January 2006 toget in contact with Tim Tackett in an effort to obtain permission to host/reproducethis page to no avail. Tim, if you are still out there, I hope you don't mind me re-publishing your fine article.. - Jim 'Ack' Cambron)

The stock carb on the 1.3L Samurai is a pretty good carb as long as it isworking correctly. But, when something goes wrong, it is very difficult toget it repaired, and expensive to have rebuilt. There are so manyswitches, vacuum pots, and logic circuits, that even remanufactured units don'talways work right. With a remanufactured unit running anywhere from $350 -$400, most people look for an alternative.

The Weber has long been achosen replacement on the 1.3L, and it is doubtful anything will come close tothe on road performance. However, it suffers badly when used in the offroad environment. It floods. You have your choice of flooding goingup hill or down hill, depending on which way you face the float bowl. Mychoice is not to have my engine quit in either situation. Anything less isjust down right dangerous. There are a lot of pieces parts available fromWeber that can somewhat remedy the situation, and some people have gotten mostof the bugs worked out. Unfortunately, it seems the solutions don't applyto every vehicle or installation, and some have tweaked for two years and neverresolved all the issues.

A simpler less expensive alternative for the folks in Canada appears to be the Pony carb taken from aHyundai. Unfortunately, those of us here in the states don't have accessto them as they were never sold in the US. Some claim that they werefinicky as well, while others swear by it. Based on it's design, I wouldthink that it should be pretty reliable as it is simple in it's design also.

For us here in the good old USA, we have to use something different. That would be the Toyotacarb. Toyota has long been recognized for turning out some strong runningfour cylinder engines. The carb that is used in this swap comes from theToyota Corolla 3K-C 1.2L engine which produced 65HP and 67FtLb of torque at 3800RPM. This is a very close match to the specs of the 1.3L Samurai engine,and the jetting is excellent for even modified engines. It has been usedup to 10,000 ft elevations, without any detrimental effects. Since thejets are the screw in type similar to Holley jets, they could be drilled out ifmore jetting was needed for heavily modified engines. The primary jet ismarked 22, and the secondary is marked 47. While I haven't checked, Ithink this corresponds to machine drill sizes. The model years for thisparticular engine ranged from 1971 to 1979. After that, Toyota went to alarger 1.6L engine, and the carb is slightly different and has more emissionsstuff on it the later into the model years you go. The carb I used wasfrom a 1978 Corolla.

When you get your carb, if lucky enough to find one in a junk yard, you need to get the carb, the throttlecable bracket, throttle return spring bracket, and the fuel line inlet to thecarb. The carb has a Metric thread size for the inlet, and I could notfind a matching inlet at any of the part stores around me. I am sure it isavailable from Toyota as are the throttle bracket and return springbracket. I didn't want to wait, so I re-tapped mine to take a standard 3/8pipe thread brass barbed nipple. I haven't had any troubles, just makesure you tap it while the carb is apart for a rebuild, or if it is aremanufactured unit, hold the carb so any metal falls out and not into theinlet.

If you take yours from a junkyard, due to the age of it, plan on a rebuild prior to installing it. Mine was a rebuilt unit, but the person I got it from had it on the shelf forseveral years, and it never seemed quite right until I rebuilt it. Therebuild is super simple, and easily accomplished. The rebuild kit I usedwas a Federated #10459 carb kit. Any parts store should be able to crossthe number over to their brand, and they cost about $20.

The Toyota carb is a direct bolt on to the manifold, and the throttle cable attaches to the Toyota bracketjust like the Samurai carb. The only modification that needs to be made isto the stock Samurai thermal spacer (red) which is under the stock carb. The Samurai carb has a 26/30 primary and secondary bore size. The Toyotacarb has a 28/28 primary and secondary bore size. On my truck, I can tellsome improvement at full throttle, but the big benefit comes at the bottom witha noticeable increase in low end torque, especially when running a torquer cam,header, and 2' exhaust.

The stock thermal spacer needs to have a vacuum channel filled, and a newchannel cut into. The primary bore should also be blended from the 28mmbore at the carb, to the 26mm bore in the manifold. If you have themanifold off, or were very careful, you could enlarge the bore size in both thespacer and the manifold. I haven't tried this, so I don't know if therewould be any increase in power over the blended spacer. As indicated inthe picture, the channel that needs to be filled is on the bottom side of thespacer, and the new channel needs to be cut on the top side. I used a 5minute epoxy stick to fill mine, and a Dremel tool with the small sanding drumto smooth everything off, make the new vacuum channel, and to blend the primarybore. The carb is mounted with the float to the rear, as this places themixture screw and the throttle mechanism in an easy to reach orientation. Use the Toyota base gasket as your guide as to where to blend, and the locationof the new vacuum channel.

Once you have the thermal spacer prepared, then there are a couple things to do onthe carb. On the left side of the carb, you will find a vacuum pot whichis used on the Toyota as a throttle positioner upon deceleration to lower emissions. This also use some vacuum switching ports on the Toyota engine, so it won't workon the Samurai (not needed). I removed this pot, as it's throttleadjustment screw moved around, and kept messing up my idle settings. Remove the nut and washer from the end of the shaft, and slide the throttlescrew holder off. Put the nut and washer back on the shaft and tighten itdown.

This will leave the lever that the throttle screw worked against in place, but if youroute your hoses correctly, nothing is around it anyway. You could cut thetop half off, but leave the lower half, as it works against a throttle returnspring. Remove the two screws holding the vacuum pot on, remove it, andreplace the screws. The other thing I did, was to remove the linkage fromthe choke breaker vacuum pot mounted on the right side top of the carb. Without the linkage, it let the choke cable work a little easier, and you don'tuse this pot either. Note the vacuum port to the right of the choke pot inthe picture, make sure you plug it. That's it as far as modifications go,pretty simple.

Place your modified thermal spacer back on the manifold using a Samurai base gasket. Place the Toyotacarb gasket on top of the thermal spacer, and your ready to bolt down thecarb. The nut that goes on the outside rear corner closest to the batterymust be threaded on partially when you set the carb on the manifold. Oncethe carb is sitting on the manifold, place the Toyota throttle cable bracket onthe back two studs next to the valve cover, and place the return spring bracketon the front outside stud (I don't have this bracket, so it is not in thepictures). Tighten the mounting nuts snugly to compress the gaskets, butdon't over tighten them to the point of stripping a stud.

Hook the Samurai throttle cable into the Toyota bracket and the throttle lever on thecarb. You might have to open up the throttle lever hole a little dependingon the size of the fitting on your throttle cable. You will also need totweak the angle of the Toyota throttle cable bracket so the end of the Samuraithrottle cable points toward the throttle lever on the carb. Once you havethe cable in the bracket, you will see where you need to tweak it. Set thethrottle cable so there is a little slack in it when the throttle as at the idleposition. You should have already gotten rid of all the vacuum hoses thatwere attached to the stock Samurai carb, if not, do so now. Only threehoses are used, and I suggest putting new ones on so you don't have any vacuumleaks from old hoses. Install the throttle return spring from the throttlelever to the Toyota bracket.

The large hose from the charcoal canister goes to the large tube sticking out of thetop rear of the Toyota carb. The distributor vacuum advance attaches to the sideof the Toyota carb on the vacuum tube located just above and to the rear of theidle mixture screw on the passenger side of the carb. There is anothervacuum tube sticking out under the throttle shaft at the back of the carb (justbelow the big spring left when the vacuum pot was removed earlier). Sims 2 castaway mac download. Thistube must be plugged. The small hose coming from the charcoal canister canbe plugged into any of the unused vacuum ports on the intake manifold.

I used one of the two ports located on the passenger side of the intake. Note, all the unused intake ports must be plugged. Use the heavy vacuumcaps available form your local auto parts store in lieu of the thin coloredvinyl caps. The vinyl caps split from engine heat.

You need to install a manual choke cable available at any NAPA or other autoparts store, I mounted mine in the little pocket on the lower left side of thesteering wheel (1988.5 dash), and ran the cable out the rubber wiring plug onthe firewall near the clutch cable exit.

Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Briggs And Stratton

Hook up your fuel line and make sure you have all your hoses in place, and all unusedvacuum ports plugged. The stock air cleaner will bolt right on, but youneed to get a stud nut and washer, or a Phillips machine screw and washer toattach the air cleaner to the carb air horn. I found that I needed toodent the air cleaner in just a bit on the front side bottom next the bracketshown in the picture (small rust line next to the right of the bracket). if you don't, the throttle linkage will rub slightly, just enough to possiblyprevent the throttle from fully closing and causing the motor to idle a fewhundred rpms high. Not dangerous, but annoying when trying to set theidle.

By now you have noticed a black and a green wire coming out of the side of thecarb.

Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Fuel Pump

This is the anti diesel solenoid. Take the Toyota connector off the two wires soyou have just the flat blade connector left. Now, find the two greenconnector plugs on the Samurai harness near the alternator. Orient them sothey look like the picture. The black wire goes in the bottom horizontalslot on the left connector. The green wire goes in the bottom horizontalslot on the right connector. You can use a bit of silicone around thewires where they exit the connectors, and when cured, use a couple tie wraps tokeep the connectors from moving around. None of the other connections areused.

Once you are sure everything is hooked up, screw in the mixture screw and then back it out about two and ahalf turns and it should be ready to fire up. It helps to have someone tostart the truck so you can fiddle with the idle and mixture screws instead ofhaving to jump in and out till you get everything set. Reviews qualitex monaco double rv recliner loveseat. The idle screw isthe shorter of the two screws next to the throttle lever. The taller screwon the inside closest to the carb body is used to set the fast idle for thechoke. Make sure the choke cable is set so that it is fully open when theknob is pushed into the dash. If you push all the way in on the choke cable, andyour idle picks up a bit, then the cable is pushing the choke lever to far openby about an 1/8' of travel. Start up the engine, and set your idle to800 to 900 rpms at 10* of timing. You will have to play with this and themixture screw a bit till you get the motor warmed up. Your timing shouldalready be set at 10*. The mixture screw should be turned in or out untilyou find the point where the motor starts to run a little rough. At thispoint, back it out 1/2 a turn. The choke fast idle should be set so thatthe motor runs at 2500 rpm when warm just before the point where closing thechoke more makes the motor start to lope

Toyota 3f Carburetor Manual Diagram

You can also use an aftermarket square K&N filter box or use a K&N filter inthe end of the stock air cleaner rubber snout as seen on my motor here. Iused a K&N GA RU-1760 filter.

That's it, in stock configuration, it will run equally well 45* up or down hill before any hint offlooding shows up. With a manual regulator installed, it has pulled 60*hills before any trouble. At that point your about to go over anyway!

Copyright, 2001 North Coast Group, Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction, for commercial or private use without prior written permission, is prohibited.